- I prime all the parts including the internals and "those that cannot be seen after snapping on the armors". It's just a preference on my part. With this I can also achieve evenness of the paint job later.
- Wear a glove unless you want your boss to know what you do everyday :)
- Always hold the primer away from the model, depress as you approach the model, one direction, left to right. Several light coats to prevent flooding the details.
- Rotate the model when priming to ensure even coverage.
- Distance from the part to spray is about 20-30 cm. Too far, you will have a coarse surface and too near, you will "drench" your part.
One of the readers, Kevin has provided a very useful insight to priming. Now let see...
"Hey, I notice that you said you stick your spray paint in "hot water". IMO thats not really ideal. Spray cans contain an enormous amount of pressures. Sticking you cans in "hot" boiling water may cause the can to rupture. (aka explode in your face) I know most cans nowadays comes with pressure release "fail-safe mechanics" build into the spray nozzle themselfs before "that" happens but its not something I would personally bet my face/life on.
I'm pretty sure you dont use boiling hot water to warm your cans but you might wanna change "hot" to something like "luke-warm" for those people that don't understand the difference.
My usually advice is to not use water so hot that it causes pain when you touch it. (should be comfortable)"
So guys take note and exercise caution when heating the can. I don't want any black faces on my blog LOL....